now that’s a wordy title!

it was a very, very busy day. We hiked all around the Dale Peninsula, which may have only been 5 1/2 miles, but maybe it was more than that – however far it was, it took a very long time, as i’ve said.  we’d made the decision to forgo seven more miles of walking to the town of Marloes, our stop for the night, and instead went back to the Allenbrook B&B and collected our car.  the owners had thought it would be fine if we left our car in Dale, but she assured me that the guy who owned the B&B in Marloes would also be fine with us leaving our car at his place for the nights of our hike.

when we got back to Allenbrook, these little chickens greeted us in the driveway.  so cute!


Here’s the Allenbrook owner, John with one of his cool old cars.  he works on them a lot, and he assured me that he’s taken this enormous thing out on the tiny roads wround dale.  amazing.


two of these dogs guarded the drive; it looks like a greyhound to me!


we drove the short way to Marloes – it was only about three miles by road!  we started out on the tiny road leading from dale, and then turned onto an even tinier road.  luckily we didn’t meet any cars and didn’t have to back up.

we were happy to arrive at The Clock House in Marloes, which was charming –  pictures to follow another day.  we decided to walk down the road to the path, to know how far we’d be going in the morning.

it wasn’t a long walk down the uncrowded little road, and found the path following this field.w223

such a spectacular day!


we decided to walk down the path to the water, but i looked mighty steep to me.  as we made our way down, a group of teenagers came walking up the path – and some of them were wearing flip flops!  so here we were in our hiking gear, and i was nervous about walking down – but they’d done it in flip flops.  but they probably grew up there and did that all the time.  maybe if i lived there, i’d walk it in flip flops, too.

i doubt it.


the rocky path we climbed down.


here’s the part of the path we missed walking, facing south – hopefully it wasn’t something so fantastic that we’ll regret seeing it!  probably not.  but maybe someday we’ll go back and walk it.


someone cut steps into the stone here.

I climbed down this steep path!

I climbed down this steep path!


Marloes was such a tiny town – they had one little touristy kind of store with a few odds and ends, but no proper grocery store, no gas station – there were a couple of churches and one pub, that’s it.  even though it wasn’t right on the water, it was a very nice little place.


very attractive houses lined the main street.


because it had only one pub, we didn’t have to decide where to have dinner.  the clock house owner, also named john like the proprietor of the Allenbrook, didn’t think much of the pub and suggested we drive to the town where we’d end up in two nights, but we had no desire to get back in the car.

i can’t remember what i had for dinner, but it wasn’t so memorable…

but then there was dessert.

i ordered sticky toffee pudding, because i’d never had it, but had heard of it.

it was one of the best desserts i’d ever had, despite being completely chocolate-free.

a layer of moist cake, which i later found out was made of dates, and then this delicious sticky carmel-y topping.  you could get it with cream or ice cream or whipped cream.  i chose cream.


soooo good…i kept texting a small group of people about our trip as we went, and i said that i’d have a sticky toffee pudding party for anybody on the list…and i haven’t even made it at all yet.  i did find a few recipes, and it doesn’t look very difficult, but things have kept getting in the way of actually baking it.

plus of course there’s the fact that each piece must have about one million calories, and i’m not doing any long hikes to burn off all those calories.

i did buy the dates, though – now that i’m not going to be so busy for the next few days because of thanksgiving, maybe i’ll make some.

because if there’s one thing we need during this holiday that’s all about eating a lot is more rich and delicious food.

ok then,

mrs. a little bit in the holiday spirit hughes.



At the crack of 10 a.m. on wednesday, august 12th, we finally made it to the first gate onto the coast path.

the entrance to the path

the entrance to the path

This was the path along the Dale Peninsula; as I’ve probably mentioned, Dale is such a tiny town that people I talked to in Wales who lived in Wales hadn’t heard of it! for one thing, as of 2011, only 225 people lived there!  but the population has increased, which never happens here in the US in little towns – in 2001, only 205 people lived there.

even though there are no people in any of these photos, this is the day that we saw the most hikers.  i bet we saw…maybe 10?  15?  not many at all.  no americans.


this was a challenging day since it was our first day of hiking.  it was pretty hilly, in my estimation.


but most of the spots with hills had stones built in.


we walked down to this beach; in the background you can see the oil refinery smokestacks which were in Milford Haven.  it wasn’t so pretty over there, which is one reason we didn’t walk on that part of the path past them all.


we saw this ferry going by; it’s the Irish Ferry, which we were going to take to get to Rosslare, Ireland, after we were done with our Wales walk.  it looked quite big, bigger than i thought it’d be.


over there on the far left is the tip of the Dale peninsula – it looked so far away!  as we walked it got warmer and warmer, and we unzipped our zipoff pants and made them into shorts.


here it is close up, and it didn’t really take long to get this far.  these pictures were taken 11 minutes apart, so not so far.  i do remember an older woman walking by herself along this part of the path – most of the path was much more clearly defined than this bit, which is only really a path because you can see the tramped-down grass.


so this is a famous spot, as you can read about.  on wikipedia it says there was a big celebration in Dale in 1985 to commemorate Henry landing here.


kevin also took pictures.  BTW, his eye is improving, so hopefully soon he’ll start posting again to his site.  i know he probably has lots of great photos, and at least some of them must be different than mine.


cows, relaxing near these cottages.  i think they’re self-catering accommodations.




now we’re headed north, back towards Dale.

we stopped to have our lunch, and why didn’t i take a picture?  we bought two cheese sandwiches from the pub the night before.  some b&bs would pack you a lunch for a fee, but Allenbrook didn’t, but Elizabeth the proprietor said we could buy sandwiches from this pub.  they were seven pounds apiece, which right now is $10.65, pretty expensive for plain cheese sandwiches on baguettes.  they were pretty good-sized, though, and we just split one.




the best part of this lunch, besides relaxing, was that i think elizabeth felt bad at the shoddy sandwiches (even though they were actually quite delicious, really fine cheese), so she stuck two jaffa cake bars into our bags, which she’d been kind enough to keep in her fridge overnight.

we’d never had a jaffa cake bar, and i have to say they’re one of the most delightful cookies i’ve ever eaten.  jaffa cakes are a layer of sponge cake with orange jam on top, encased in a chocolate coating.  but these were jaffa cake bars, which were rectangular bars, more chocolatey, and simply fabulous.

here’s what the original jaffa cakes look like:

jaffa cake, cut in half

jaffa cake, cut in half


there’s a big posting on Wikipedia about a big controversy about jaffa cakes being classified as a cake or a biscuit (cookie), because cookies are charged a VAT in the UK and cakes aren’t.  i won’t go into it here, but you can always click if you’re so inclined.

here’s a jaffa cake bar, the kinds we had – as you can see, they’re quite a bit bigger than the original jaffa cakes.

btw, jaffa cakes are the best-selling cake or biscuit in the UK.

jaffa cake bar

now i just want to eat one…

here are some wild horses – we saw quite a few of them during our different days of hiking.


here’s the town of Dale off in the distance, as we were almost done with the peninsula.


a pretty steep descent, but most of it had steps.  down on the left are people on the beach.  and right above kevin, somebody has pitched a tent.


i kinda of wished we’d walked down to the beach, but at this point we were totally exhausted, plus we’d have had to walk back up out of it again.


steep steps that we’d walked down.


up on the hill, a few cows were having a good time.


it was 2:30 by the time we reached a little cemetery on the outskirts of Dale.  We’d hiked about 5 1/2 miles in 4 1/2 hours.  so how could we have possibly walked so incredibly slowly?  i mean, we weren’t crawling!  but yes, we did stop every five minutes to take photos, and we rested.  also, i calculated the mileage on the mapmyrun website, and according to that, we actually walked seven miles.

it doesn’t matter; the great thing is that it was so beautiful, and i didn’t trip and plunge into the sea.


i can’t find the name of this cemetery.


there were many very old gravestones.


relaxing in the sun, we discussed the plans for the rest of the day – according to the brochure from our travel company, Macs Adventure, we had only walked five miles…and it was another 7-8 miles to our stop for the night, in Marloes.  At this point it was about 3:00, and at our current speed, we’d basically never get there.

luckily, our car was parked right there at the Allenbrook b&b, and we made the decision to get back in the car and drive to Marloes.  yes, we were “cheating,” and we’d miss seven-eight miles of lovely scenery – but we couldn’t bear the thought of trudging on.

we weren’t thrilled with the thought of getting back onto the tiny, dinky little roads, but figured it couldn’t be that bad since it was such a short distance in a car.

next, i’ll conclude this first day of hiking.

ok then,

mrs. accomplished the first day hughes.



finally, we began our Wales Walk!  it was supposed to be 11 or 12 miles, around the peninsula in Dale, and then up the coast a bit to the little town of Marloes, where we’d spend the night on Wednesday.

our two suitcases had to be downstairs and ready to go by 9:00, but i hadn’t slept so well and didn’t get up til about 8:15, so there was a whole lot of rushing about.

the Allenbrook B&B was such a quirky, beautiful place, and it’s too bad we didn’t get to spend a little more time there.  there was so much to see in every room that it was impossible to take it all in.



those funny little egg-shaped salt and pepper shakers are just like ones we have at home.  i can’t remember exactly where Elizabeth, the owner, said she got them, but she definitely acquired some of her things from the US.


outside, this peacock wanted to see what was going on.

i bet he was hungry!

i bet he was hungry!

isn’t that a great painting with a peacock there on the back wall?  this was the most fancy place we stayed in on our whole trip.  because of its age, and i’m sure the huge expense of keeping things up, the plumbing was sort of an issue, but it didn’t matter so much.


look at that collection of dogs on the top shelf!  plus so much more.  Dad really would have loved this place.



we finally made it out the door, at a quarter to ten.  last night i’d been so worried about the cold weather, but it was already warm and sunny and a perfect start to the day.

the walk was finally about to start!

the walk was finally about to start!

because this was our first day, and because there were just so many things i hadn’t seen, i felt the need to take an overabundance of photos.  for example, the chickens and peacock hanging out in the yard.


the view of the house – this isn’t even the whole thing, it’s so sprawling.  did i mention there was croquet set up?  which we didn’t take the time to play.  stop and smell the roses, stop and play a round of croquet; how many times do you have the opportunity?


i loved this little stream with a wall on the back part of the property.  now i realize that those orange flowers there on the left are crocosmia, which i found in many places all over wales and ireland.

such a lovely place, Allenbrook

such a lovely place, Allenbrook

the end of the driveway.


we closed the gate to take this one.


up on the road on the outskirts of town – yes, this is an actual road, and a car passed us at one point.


the town below us.  it’s funny that the sign says 3o kilmometers an hour – that’s about 18 MPH.  i can’t imagine doing anything other than creeping down this road in a car, but the car that passed us was moving right along.

this photo makes me want to go right back to Dale.

this photo makes me want to go right back to Dale.


by 10:00 we’d arrived at the first gate, the beginning of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path for us.

the entrance to the path, off the road

the entrance to the path, off the road

and we walked, and walked, and stopped every five minutes or so to take a picture, or rest, or both.

next will be the path itself…

ok then,

mrs. walking hughes.




here’s a little video of our car ride to dale, and our lovely room at the Allenbrook b&B.  editing the video, i noticed that when we were “20 minutes” outside of Dale, there was still a middle line down the road, plus lines on either side.  it took way more than 20 minutes, and all the lines disappeared because the road got so very narrow.

i have no video of that, i’m sure because i was just HOPING WE’D STAY ALIVE.


ok then,

mrs. arrived safely hughes.


Wales Day 11 – Part 3

November 8, 2015

what a day!  we finally arrived safely in the small town of Dale, checked into our B&B, and walked out the door to find some dinner. but first…the owner had three old and fabulous cars in his driveway.  this one was under a canopy, and the others were in the garage.  kevin says this is […]

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Wales Day 11 – part 2

November 7, 2015

in my previous post, i wrote about our good morning – slept in, watched the activity at the pier, leisurely breakfast, got off the ship and into our cute little rental car.  everything was good on Tuesday, August 11th, until about 10:30 or so in the morning.  we headed down the street from Hertz to find our […]

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Wales Day 11 – landing in Southampton!

November 4, 2015

yaaaay, we made it!  Tuesday, August 11th, we arrived at the Southampton Port. I got up at 4:20 and looked out to see land!  very exciting! and in 20 short minutes, there we were! luckily, i went back to sleep until a more civilized hour.  when i got up around seven, this big boat was […]

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a hike with a twist…

November 3, 2015

because it was sunny and in the 70s and a truly beautiful day, kevin and i decided to hike at Site M, the Jim Edgar Panther Creek Wildlife Area yesterday.  We didn’t get there til about 2:00 in the afternoon. we started off and it was almost too warm, but really nice.  an incredible day for […]

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Final day of crossing the ocean – Monday, August 10th

October 31, 2015

finally, i didn’t feel the need to eat such a huge breakfast on this second-to-last breakfast on board.   another ship!  closer and closer to southampton… we did go to an interesting lecture, by a journalist who had travelled with the queen in her younger days.  he had many interesting stories and photos of her. […]

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October 30, 2015

since les has a long history of escaping over the fence (he’s not able to do that anymore, finally), and then being gone for hours if we let him roam free, we’ve been limiting his going-out time.  kevin lets him out in the early morning and he comes right back in in about a half […]

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