{"id":2498,"date":"2009-10-24T18:25:48","date_gmt":"2009-10-24T23:25:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/?p=2498"},"modified":"2009-10-24T18:25:48","modified_gmt":"2009-10-24T23:25:48","slug":"edinburgh","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/uncategorized\/edinburgh\/","title":{"rendered":"edinburgh"},"content":{"rendered":"

ok, it’s been too long now since we’ve been to scotland.\u00a0 where has the time gone?\u00a0 what have i been doing?<\/p>\n

the last time i posted, we’d finished biking and spent a day in pitlochry and saw blair castle, then traveled to st. andrews, the home of golf.\u00a0 after spending a night in a fancy b&b there, we took the train to edinburgh.\u00a0 we checked into our b&b, the Elmview, which was the NUMBER ONE RATED B&B ON TRIP ADVISOR in edinburgh.\u00a0 i think they even made the top five in…europe?\u00a0 the uk?\u00a0 top five somewhere.\u00a0 this must be a lot of pressure, being the #1 b&b in a town chock full of them.\u00a0 the place was\u00a0 really nice, and when we arrived, there was a big decanter of sherry which we drank.<\/p>\n

we had walked and walked and walked from the train station.\u00a0 at first we had to go uphill but at least it wasn’t like going on a bike uphill (pushing a bike uphill), but damn, those suitcases were heavy, even on wheels.\u00a0 and the way was very steep.\u00a0 we reached the top point, in the middle of town, and the place was crawling, swarming with tourists.\u00a0 this was sunday afternoon and we thought that maybe it wouldn’t be so bad on monday when we’d be walking around.\u00a0 this was a silly thought on our part.<\/p>\n

anyway, once we reached the top it was all downhill from there but i was slightly grouchy about having to trudge along.\u00a0 not so much to say LET’S TAKE A CAB.\u00a0 we finally arrived and drank lots of sherry and things were much better.<\/p>\n

that night we had dinner in a little pub down the street from our b&b and it started raining really hard on the walk to the place and by the time we got there we were pretty drenched and glad to just be out of the rain.\u00a0 it was a cheap meal, but quite good.\u00a0 plus we were dry.<\/p>\n

the next morning, monday, we got up and had breakfast at the dining table with the other guests.\u00a0 once again, our host, Robin, was chagrined that kevin didn’t want anything more than porridge.\u00a0 this was really fancy porridge, mind you, with madeira-soaked currants or something decadant like that.\u00a0 robin brought out a little picture of the day’s special that his wife robin had made; it was something like a crepe filled with salmon and marscapone.\u00a0 something very delicious, and i had it even though i wasn’t really in the mood for something rich in the morning.<\/p>\n

our table-mates were cheerful people.\u00a0 one couple was from LA and the others were german, in town for a wedding.\u00a0 we sat around and talked for a while, and then headed out for the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle.<\/p>\n

\"scotland-192\"<\/p>\n

there it is, but we DIDN’T HAVE TO RIDE OUR BIKES up to it!\u00a0 yeah!\u00a0 the walk up wasn’t nearly as bad as it looked.\u00a0 Robin had told us we should get there early because of the huge crowds but Nici acted like he was being silly.\u00a0 she was very very wrong.<\/p>\n

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this is the approach to the castle; can you see the white unicorn there on the left?\u00a0 i wonder how much a job like that pays.<\/p>\n

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the crowd didn’t seem so bad…until we got inside the walls and realized there was a ridiculously long line.\u00a0 oh boy.\u00a0 kevin stood in line and i wandered around and then finally went into the gift shop.\u00a0 i realized that for more money we could buy some kind of multi-day pass that included other castles and historic sights.\u00a0 we weren’t going to be able to use the passes, but it might be worth it to get right inside.\u00a0 i went out and consulted with kevin, who had been standing in line for over a half hour and hadn’t even gotten halfway through the line.<\/p>\n

we decided it would be worth it, so i went back and got the tickets and we got right in.\u00a0 this castle is very famous and consequently very very crowded with people.\u00a0 here’s a view of town.<\/p>\n

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it wasn’t a castle with a wall and a castle inside; this was a multi-building affair, really huge.\u00a0 here’s a tiny portion of the crowd.<\/p>\n

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this is another shot of the New Town, which was Georgian, not exactly new.\u00a0 we just didn’t have time to explore the New Town, but Robin had told us that it wasn’t really worth it to visit.\u00a0 we did take the bus through the next day, and that was enough.<\/p>\n

\"scotland-197\"<\/p>\n

this is a…it’s a chapel, that’s what it is.\u00a0 some queen who was then made an..angel?\u00a0 no, they’re not made angels, they’re made…saints.\u00a0 saint margaret?\u00a0 i think saint margaret.\u00a0 maybe this is the oldest building in edinburgh.\u00a0 in scotland?\u00a0 in the UK?\u00a0 i definitely knew all of this a few months ago.\u00a0 it was a tiny little chapel, and packed with people.<\/p>\n

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this is a little graveyard for dogs who belonged to people who worked at the palace.<\/p>\n

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this is a giant cannon that they shot off every day at one o’clock.<\/p>\n

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i like this picture a lot.<\/p>\n

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here’s the view down the Royal Mile to the sea.\u00a0 that hill there on the right is something kind of famous- it’s called ARTHUR’S SEAT –\u00a0 and in the rick steves book he recommended walking up it.\u00a0 we didn’t.<\/p>\n

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another building at the castle.<\/p>\n

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here’s some of the throngs of people who gathered for the cannon-shooting.\u00a0 gobs of people, but then they all quickly dispersed after it happened.<\/p>\n

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both these statues were at the entrance to the castle.\u00a0 one is william wallace (braveheart) and the other is Robert the Bruce.\u00a0 i don’t know which is which.\u00a0 i’m guessing that the first one is wallace, because the second guy looks more like a king.<\/p>\n

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\"scotland-206\"<\/p>\n

here is a picture of the biggest scam i encountered in scotland.\u00a0 actually i don’t think there were any other scams.\u00a0 how did i hear about the Witchery?\u00a0 i can’t remember.\u00a0 i found the restaurant’s website and WOW, it looked FANTASTIC.\u00a0 really, really cool and interesting with all kinds of…interesting and cool stuff inside.\u00a0 plus there was an online guestbook and it appeared that many many celebrities had been there and LOVED IT – people like matt groening and catherine zeta jones and just pretty much many many celebrities.\u00a0 it seemed that it would be a little bit pricey, but as i said, on the website it looked REALLY REALLY COOL.<\/p>\n

so i made online reservations way in advance.\u00a0 when we left the castle we saw the restaurant, which was just a bit down the street.\u00a0 we looked in and it looked…ok.\u00a0 but maybe this was just the outer room or something?\u00a0 but i started to have a bad feeling about it.<\/p>\n

\"scotland-207\"<\/p>\n

and then…we walked and walked, down the royal mile.<\/p>\n

being in edinburgh, a city full of many lovely historic things and lots to see, i reaffirmed my feeling that i don’t like big crowds.\u00a0 as we walked down the royal mile, there were crowds and throngs and hordes of people.\u00a0 and mostly down the royal mile were…shops.\u00a0 lots and lots and lots of tourist shops, and most of them sold plaid things.\u00a0 all plaid, all the time. we went into many of the shops, but soon they all started to look alike.\u00a0 we went into a church, we saw many historic things…and then we were hungry for lunch.<\/p>\n

we tried to go into the historic deacon brodie’s pub but it was hot and crowded.\u00a0 we walked down a side street…and there was YET ANOTHER PIZZA EXPRESS.\u00a0 pizza express, the delicious outstanding pizza place we’d found in st. andrews the day before and lo and behold, it’s a delicious chain all over the U.K.<\/p>\n

as we lunched, it rained a lot and we were glad to be inside.\u00a0 when it stopped we went out and walked and walked and walked some more, all down the royal mile.\u00a0 the sun came out and it was a lovely day.\u00a0 we didn’t make it all the way down to the end of the mile because we had reservations at the Witchery.\u00a0 we walked back to our b&b, but this time took a different little street, and there we found an amazing cheese shop.<\/p>\n

kevin took a picture to document it.\u00a0 i had just read about this place in a guidebook that had been in our room at the B&b.\u00a0 it talked about the fabulous cheese selection, plus the fact that they readily give out free samples.<\/p>\n

\"scotland-208\"<\/p>\n

the book WAS NOT EXXAGERATING.\u00a0 we went in and i gawked at all the cheese, and told the woman we wanted to buy a bit of a smoked kind and she said, “well, THIS kind is actually better,” and she lopped us off a couple of slices…and then she just kept giving us samples and i just kept buying more and more cheese – not huge quantities, because we couldn’t save it, but lots of different ones.\u00a0 a cheese smorgasbord.<\/p>\n

we walked back to the b&b and i said maybe we should skip the restaurant and stay home and eat cheese, but we decided to try the Witchery.\u00a0 We got back, cleaned up, and took a cab back to the Royal Mile.<\/p>\n

the restaurant was beyond disappointing.\u00a0 the only patrons there when we arrived was a couple from the south and their mother.\u00a0 a very young couple showed up after a while.\u00a0 the place wasn’t interesting, wasn’t unique in any way, and the food wasn’t nearly as good as the delicious pizza we’d had earlier.<\/p>\n

lesson learned – WEBSITES CAN LIE.\u00a0 BIG TIME.<\/p>\n

like i said, though, it was just so damn good, that website.\u00a0 oh well.<\/p>\n

here, i just looked it up and this is a blurb.\u00a0 doesn’t it make you want to go there?\u00a0 liars, big fat liars.<\/p>\n

Located in an historic sixteenth-century building at the gates of Edinburgh Castle, James Thomson’s Witchery is the most atmospheric and spectacular dining destination in the city. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

A unique location,stunning interiors and superlative food, wine and service create memorable and magical dining experiences for locals, visitors and celebrities alike. Ewan MacGregor, Michael Douglas, Catherine Zeta Jones, Jack Nicholson and Clarissa Dickson Wright have all succumbed to its charms, with Andrew Lloyd Webber calling it the prettiest restaurant ever! <\/em><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Originally built for an Edinburgh merchant in 1595, this historic building on the Royal Mile now includes the jewel-like Witchery diningroom, the spectacular Secret Garden and a collection of totally indulgent and opulent suites on the floors above and in an adjacent historic building.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

crap.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

but the day ended perfectly, and it was far from over.\u00a0 besides the superlative cheese shop, the big highlight of the day occurred after dinner…we walked back to our b&b, and then set out for a movie theater.\u00a0 “Harry potter and the half-blood prince” had recently opened and we figured it would be fun to see it in the U.K.\u00a0 Our b&b host, Robin, told us about a movie theater called the Dominion, that had leather couches and served alcohol.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

we decided to walk to the theater, and the neighborhoods just got nicer and nicer.\u00a0 by the time we reached it, we were in a very swanky part of town.\u00a0 and the theater – everything we’d hoped for an more.\u00a0 big blue leather couches, and kevin and i got a big couch all to ourselves.\u00a0 we ordered a couple of hard ciders at the candy counter, and sat down in complete luxury.\u00a0 for some funny reason, everybody also got a complimentary little tube of pringles potato chips.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

we waited as the theater filled up, and finally there were a couple of previews.\u00a0 then…nothing.\u00a0 can you imagine that happening here?\u00a0 nope, it almost always runs like clockwork.\u00a0 it didn’t seem like this was anything out of the ordinary, so we just waited, drinking our cider and munching on our pringles.\u00a0 after a while the movie started.\u00a0 it was great, a great experience, a fine way to end the day…but still, not over yet.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

when we left, we asked the theatre owner if it was safe to walk back to our b&b so late at night.\u00a0 he was dressed in a tuxedo, and he was Mr. Dominion; the theater had been in his family for three generations.\u00a0 he said he’d gotten the idea for the couches and the alcohol from a theater he’d been to in vermont!\u00a0 he assured us that it was safe, but then an older lady interrupted and said she’d walk us to the bus.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

so we started walking, the old lady, me and kevin, and the lady’s niece.\u00a0 we walked and walked and talked…she was very friendly, just as everybody in Scotland was, and she wanted to know all about our ancestors and i tried to explain that i didn’t really know a lot about them, and felt bad that i didn’t.\u00a0 but she was happy to talk and talk, and we walked down really nice streets that were almost completely dark. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

we ended up walking all the way back instead of taking the bus, and when they turned to go to their house, the woman was very specific about which way we needed to go to get to our b&b.\u00a0 very nice, friendly, accomodating scottish people.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

we would spend one more day in Edinburgh, then back to Glasgow for one night.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

more soon.\u00a0 my goal is to post all the rest of the photos before halloween.\u00a0 so i have a week, that’s doable, right?\u00a0 not that i have anything to do to get ready for the party in a week…<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

ok then,<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

saturday evening grace.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

ok, it’s been too long now since we’ve been to scotland.\u00a0 where has the time gone?\u00a0 what have i been doing? the last time i posted, we’d finished biking and spent a day in pitlochry and saw blair castle, then traveled to st. andrews, the home of golf.\u00a0 after spending a night in a fancy […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[23,19],"class_list":["post-2498","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-dominion-cinema","tag-scotland"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p6JLYy-Ei","jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2498","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2498"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2498\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2498"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2498"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/graceuncensored.com\/WordPress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2498"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}